As a writer who's covered both style and health for the past decade, I have high standards for the brands I invest in. I look for pieces that are comfortable and flattering, of course, but I also pay close attention to the chemicals used in their manufacturing. So when I came across the intimates and loungewear line Subset, I immediately noticed that its pieces are made from PFAS-free, certified organic cotton.
Emerging studies have suggested that a lot of synthetic fabrics contain PFAS, also commonly known as "forever chemicals," which are linked to a wide range of health harms from impaired immunity to reproductive issues. While we don't know the degree to which these chemicals can transfer from clothing, studies have shown they can be absorbed through the skin. So, as a precaution, I try to avoid them whenever possible — particularly with garments worn close to my body, like underwear.
That approach appealed to me, especially for underwear and other pieces worn close to the skin. But materials are only part of the equation: I wore and washed five of Subset's bestsellers for weeks to find out whether they were comfortable enough to sleep in, versatile enough for everyday outfits, and durable enough to justify the investment.
What's the difference between Subset's bras?
Subset's main bra styles are the Triangle Soft Bra and the Keyhole Soft Bra.
Both styles feel more like a bralette in that they're soft and stretchy with no underwire or padding — but at the same time, they have more structure and are more customizable than the typical pullover bralette. The double-lined and darted cotton cups, thick band with three rows of hook-and-eye closures, and adjustable straps lend a surprising amount of support.
The main difference is that the keyhole bra has a more scooped neckline, whereas the triangle bra has a more V-neck shape. The keyhole style also offers slightly more coverage at the very top of the cups.
Triangle Soft Bra review
Triangle bras haven't historically been the best fit for me — the skimpy angled cups simply don't cut it for my fuller bust. But this one surprised me: Thanks in part to the higher center, I didn't find myself spilling out of it. My DD-cup bust got significantly more support than most bralettes, but without any pesky wires digging in. Plus, it works great under lower-cut tops.
The seams in the center of the cups also provide some much-appreciated lift and shape — although the downside is that they are visible under skintight or super thin tees and tanks. Of the two bralettes I tested, this one wins for visible lift and separation.
Keyhole Soft Bra review
I wasn't sure what to make of this bra, but it's actually become a favorite in my rotation for lounging and everyday wear. The cups sit higher, making it less versatile than the triangle bra — that said, the broader scoop shape also offers a little more coverage and makes me feel a little more secure.
Overall, this bra has a slightly sportier look, but the keyhole does lend some fun visual flair. It's more likely to peek out from under low-cut tops, so I've been wearing this one under casual scoop-neck dresses and crew-neck tees.
High-Rise Brief review
A high-rise brief is not usually my first pick when it comes to underwear, only because it's slightly limiting from a style standpoint: I can't wear it under any of my mid-rise skirts or low-slung jeans. That said, this is Subset's top seller, so I had to see what all the hype was about.
Subset claims these are not your grandma's panties, and I have to say this rings pretty true. Because the leg holes are cut higher and the rear is a bit cheekier, these offer the modesty of a traditional brief with a slightly more flirty and feminine appeal. The cheeky backside seems to be polarizing with reviewers — it could be considered a pro or a con, depending on your personal preferences for coverage.
Mid-Rise Thong review
I consider thongs to be a necessary evil: I don't particularly love having fabric ride up my backside all day long, but they certainly come in handy when I'm wearing a bodycon dress or pencil skirt. This one isn't seamless, and the waistband is slightly thicker, so it doesn't disappear under every outfit — but it's also surprisingly comfy for a thong. It also doesn't bunch up or roll down over the course of the day.
I've been reaching for Subset's thong when I'm wearing thicker form-fitting bottoms, like skinny jeans or on sweltering days when I want to keep things breezy with minimal coverage.
Mid-Rise Bikini review
My holy grail underwear strikes a balance between cute and comfy — something surprisingly hard to achieve. The Subset bikini fits the bill. It provides ample coverage without looking too conservative, and the high-cut openings make my legs look longer.
It's not the best option for avoiding VPL, yet of all the Subset styles I tested, this is the one I found myself wearing the most — whether hanging around the house, sleeping, or heading out for the day in flowier dresses and relaxed-fit jeans.
FAQs
Do Subset bras run true to size?
In my experience, the bras do run true to size. If you're between sizes, Subset recommends sizing up — and if you have a larger cup-to-band ratio, consider the "plus" bra sizes.
What do Subset's "plus" bra sizes mean?
In addition to the standard XS to 2XL sizing, Subset also offers its bra styles in "plus" size options (S+ to 3XL+) with additional cup room.
This can come in handy for people like me, who have a larger cup size than their band size. For example, a regular M bra only fits a B-C cup, whereas a M+ bra fits cup sizes D-E. The best way to figure out whether you need a roomier cup is to compare your measurements against Subset's size guide.
Does Subset underwear shrink or show panty lines?
It's an unavoidable reality that anything made with 100% cotton will usually shrink a little when exposed to heat in the washing machine and dryer. That's probably why Subset strongly advises washing these pieces on the cold water setting, and hanging or laying flat to dry.
By following these instructions, I didn't notice much shrinkage.
How do Subset pieces hold up with washing?
My biggest pet peeve with clothing is pilling, without a doubt — so I was pleased to find this wasn't an issue with Subset's fabric. It also retained its shape and softness and resisted fading throughout my testing, even after multiple washes.
One thing I did notice — as someone with two cats — is that hair (and lint) does seem to cling to Subset's organic cotton quite a bit. But I opted for black, and I'd imagine this is way less visible with lighter colors.
