Travel

I spent 3 nights in a secluded lodge in Italy's Dolomites. The views were unreal, but they weren't even the best part.

The view from the author's suite at FORESTIS.
The view from the reporter's suite at Forestis. Monica Humphries/Business Insider
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The morning sun slowly crept up, illuminating the outline of the Dolomites. I squinted out my hotel suite's floor-to-ceiling windows in disbelief.

"They can't be that close," I murmured out loud, fearing I'd wake my friend sleeping near me.

It was still largely dark outside, and I begged the sun to rise faster.

Ages later (actually about 20 minutes), light illuminated each jagged peak.

The mountains were, in fact, that close.

This time, I didn't think twice about waking my friend. In our PJs, we hurried onto our balcony at Forestis to get a little closer to the range.

As we sipped coffee and admired the striking views, we feared the morning was setting an unrealistic standard for the rest of our stay.

Shockingly, the views weren't even the best part of Forestis.

Forestis is tucked in Italy's Dolomites mountain range.

The Dolomites from the author's balcony.
The Dolomites from the reporter's balcony. Monica Humphries/Business Insider

The five-star hotel sits 5,905 feet above sea level near the Italian town of Brixen.

In 1912, the property was originally planned to be a sanatorium built by the Austrian monarchy.

The area's fresh spring water, mountain air, and nature were thought to provide an ideal environment for healing. Construction started, but the plans were never finished as war sprung across the region.

In 2000, the hotelier Alois Hinteregger discovered the abandoned building, which his family purchased and opened as a hotel in 2010.

A decade later, Alois' son, Stefan, and his partner, Teresa Unterthiner, expanded the property and transformed it into the five-star retreat it is today.

Three towers of suites and a private villa complete the resort.

A view of one of the property's three towers.
A view of one of the property's three towers. Monica Humphries/Business Insider

My friend and I arrived at the property at night. We drove up the winding Plose Mountain, and the lights from the nearby town slowly disappeared.

Even at night, it was clear that Forestis was a grand property. Three towers stretch toward the sky, home to 40 suites and two penthouses. Adjoining the towers is a historic building with suites, hotel rooms, a restaurant, a bar, and a spa.

While the sanatorium never operated as planned, one completed building did serve as a doctor's residence in the early 20th century. That building has been remodeled and restored to a private villa with a spa and garden for 10 guests.

Rates at the five-star property start at $865, depending on the time of year, and include breakfast for two. Business Insider received a media rate for the three-night stay.

Pine is incorporated throughout the property.

A view of the FORESTIS property.
A view of the property. Monica Humphries/Business Insider

From rooms with spruce-paneled walls to a spa using mountain pine and Swiss stone pine scents, Forestis is consistent in its theme.

The resort's goal is to connect guests with the four elements, and for three days, it was impossible to forget I was surrounded by nature.

Suites feature floor-to-ceiling glass windows that frame the mountains. Meanwhile, each suite's walls, floors, and ceiling are paneled in spruce.

The author's suite.
The reporter's tower suite. Monica Humphries/Business Insider

As I stepped into my tower suite, the forest theme continued. Every inch of the room was covered in spruce wood, except for one wall dedicated to glass windows.

A king-size bed occupied one corner, facing the suite's floor-to-ceiling windows, and across the room was an L-shaped seating area. At the front of the room was a balcony with a daybed big enough for two.

The room also had a large closet area and a stone-inspired bathroom with a double vanity, shower, and tub. Here, rock had been ground into plaster and covered the bathroom walls — an element I spotted across the resort.

One cabinet held complimentary drinks and snacks; a new treat, such as truffles and chocolates, arrived just before bedtime each evening.

The room's design was simple — there was no artwork or decor. Couch cushions and bedsheets were in grays and whites, so all the focus was on the nearby Dolomites.

While it was hard to leave the breathtaking room, the resort's highlight was the spa and pool.

The indoor and outdoor pools at FORESTIS.
The indoor and outdoor pools. Monica Humphries/Business Insider

After waking up to the striking mountain views, my friend and I considered never leaving the suite. We could call room service when hungry and spend the day admiring the mountains.

It was tempting, but we headed downstairs to explore the spa.

While we considered never leaving the suite, exiting the spa was even more challenging.

At the heart of the 21,500-square-foot spa was the most impressive pool I've ever seen. Unsurprisingly, the pool had views of the Dolomites. Half of it was indoors, and the other was outdoors. Guests could swim between the two through sliding glass doors.

The area also had loungers, daybeds, a water station with small snacks, a sauna, and a steam room.

A hallway led to another wing of the spa, which had two more indoor saunas, one at 185 degrees Fahrenheit and another at 158 degrees. There was a cold plunge, a silent room with a fireplace, and a tea lounge.

A door led outdoors to the fifth sauna, which was tucked inside a traditional South Tyrolean wooden house, and a second outdoor cold plunge.

While access to these amenities is included in the stay, the property's spa also offers treatments like massages, facials, scrubs, and manicures.

Guests can discover the magic of saunas and cold plunging.

Side-by-side images of the cold plunge and sauna at FORESTIS.
Side-by-side images of the cold plunge and sauna. Monica Humphries/Business Insider

Beyond spa offerings, Forestis has a daily calendar of activities for guests.

My friend and I debated between meditation sessions and guided hikes. Ultimately, we decided to join the daily complimentary sauna ritual. Celtic practices inspire Forestis' spa, and perhaps this one encapsulated that the most.

Saro, a member of the spa team, led the ritual. We stepped inside the hot sauna with two other guests.

As steam rose from the rocks, Saro turned on powerful instrumental music, flicked open a large fan, and danced for the next 15 minutes. Essential oils were thrown onto the rocks every five minutes, enveloping the sauna in a new (typically pine) scent.

We focused on breathing as we were hit with waves of heat. Meditating through the hot air was relaxing, incredibly challenging, and rewarding.

As Saro wrapped up the ritual, he encouraged us all to cold plunge.

We felt both energized and relaxed, and after that, my friend and I were hooked.

Each night, a seven-course dinner was served.

Side-by-side dishes at FORESTIS.
Two of the dishes at Forestis. Monica Humphries/Business Insider

A luxury resort wouldn't be complete without fine dining, and that's exactly what we discovered at Forestis.

The restaurant served three menus each evening: a seven-course Forestis menu, a seven-course detox menu, and an à la carte menu.

The menus change each day, and the dishes are inspired by the forest and local ingredients.

We dined on salads with South Tyrolean apples, vegan ravioli with fennel, gnocchi with herbs, duck breast, and an impressive array of desserts.

The dinner costs $140 and can be added to your stay.

In the morning, I indulged in the most extravagant breakfast buffet I've ever seen.

The restaurant at FORESTIS.
The restaurant at Forestis. Monica Humphries/Business Insider

My friend and I spent an afternoon with the pastry chef Irene, where we saw which local ingredients were being incorporated into the morning pastries and evening desserts. We infused the flavor of local hay in white chocolate syrup and made kipfel cookies.

The next morning, Irene's creations were on display in the most extravagant breakfast buffet I've ever seen.

I eyed eight different pastries, including gluten-free and dairy-free options. There were more than five freshly baked breads, five milk choices, five cheeses, seven types of smoked fish and cured meats, five types of butter, yogurt, fruits, cereal, and an entire room dedicated to fresh juice. Beyond that, there was a breakfast menu where I eyed hot dishes.

Again, it was tempting to never leave.

Outside, Forestis has direct access to ski slopes and summer hiking.

The author's friend heads out to ski.
The reporter's friend heads out to ski. Monica Humphries/Business Insider

The property offers guided hikes and access to four bike routes.

A little chilly for hiking, my friend and I spent our mornings skiing on Plose Mountain. The inconveniences of skiing — traffic, long walks to the chairlift, and lugging gear — weren't an issue here. Forestis has ski-in, ski-out access, as well as a room to store gear.

My three nights at Forestis were a modern escape in nature — and I don't know if I'll find a spa that can compare.

The author at FORESTIS.
The reporter at Forestis. Monica Humphries/Business Insider

The stay at Forestis flew by, but the property left a lasting impression.

In three days, I skied new mountains, soaked in stunning pools, and fell even more in love with Italy and the Dolomites.

And I still haven't forgotten the spa. A few weeks after returning home to Denver, my friend and I searched for nearby saunas — itching to recreate any semblance of Forestis' spa experience.

Correction: April 7, 2025 — An earlier version of this story misstated the altitude of the Forestis hotel. It is 5,905 feet above sea level, not 5,905 meters.

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Monica was a travel reporter and photographer based in Colorado. She covered a range of topics with a focus on alternative living and luxury travel. When she's not in the mountains, you could find her documenting what it's like to trek gorillas in Uganda, reporting on the latest short-term rental scam, and photographing private islands in Central America.Before working at Business Insider, Monica specialized in solutions journalism at the startup NationSwell. She graduated from the University of Florida in 2018 with a degree in journalism. You can reach her at humphriesmonica@gmail.com and follow her on Instagram.Popular ArticlesMy week in Mexico's hidden paradiseBoquete, Panama, was once a quiet town home to rainforests and coffee farms. Then came the retirees.Strangers kept arriving at an LA man's home, thinking it was their Airbnb. The company left him hanging for more than a year.Van-life couples share what the lifestyle is really like and how it can make or break a relationshipI thought I'd hate all-inclusive resorts. Then I went to one.Americans are flocking to Hawaii, but locals don't want tourists visiting now — and some wish they'd stop altogetherI had the most luxurious stay of my life in Panama. Now, I want every tropical vacation to include a private island.